Men’s spring fashion: trending topics
From ‘modern camo’ to double denim and the socks and sandals debate,
here are the 10 hottest talking points in menswear for the new season
‘Modern camo’
First clue: this is not awful combat trousers with
pointless pockets. The fastest route to understanding camo circa 2013 is
to do what any sensible person who likes clothes does. Refer to the
oracle Dries Van Noten, whose beautifully put-together spring
collection shows remixed camo patterns with tailoring, crisp white,
slouchy knits, navy and even the occasional blast of gold. Backstage
after his spring show, the Belgian designer explained that he’d
imagined his new camo like a leopardprint. Note: Topman is selling a
leopard-camo hybrid T-shirt this season. Alternative plan: buy a khaki
jumper from Jigsaw.
Animal print
Bobby Gillespie Bobby Gillespie: a big fan of animal prints. Photograph: Gareth Cattermole/Getty Images for Guinness
Study Bobby Gillespie in the latest issue of Another
Man wearing Saint Laurent leopard to see how to do it. Gillespie has
animal-print form: he has previously been seen on the frow in a snake
shirt. From London labels, such as YMC and Sibling, to the
international catwalks of Emporio Armani or Comme, the animal look has
also hit the high street. There is knitwear at All Saints while Zara is
selling animal T-shirts and sunglasses. BTW the latter are so very
next-autumn Burberry.
Double denim
Calvin Klein Calvin Klein goes for triple denim. Photograph: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images
Any excuse to discuss Michael J Fox’s wardrobe in Back to the Future again. First things first, the denim
cheap jackets for men
is definitely back. It is being flagged by all the men’s magazines as a
hero piece for the season. Actor Charlie Hunnam, star of Sons of
Anarchy and the cover star of GQ Style, wears double Levis for a shoot
in the magazine. The high street is strongly backing denim: River
Island has developed various styles for the new season, while Asos is
expanding its washes this season for a new denim range. On the catwalk,
Calvin Klein and Acne pushed things further still with triple denim.
Blimey.
Trainers
Snazzy trainers have been bubbling in fashion circles
for a while now with Nike Air Max and New Balance leading the charge.
This season, Raf Simons’ multi-hued catwalk trainers, matched with baggy
suit trousers, are set to be a major hit, while next autumn, Lanvin’s
are set to have similar buzz. For further proof of their currency:
Alber Elbaz, creative director of Lanvin, was recently spotted wearing
Nikes with a pinstripe suit. Not everyone is on board. Street-style
snapper Tommy Ton says: "I don’t like garish sneakers. When your shoes
outshine your entire outfit, that’s the worst."
Yellow or a red?
Tinie Tempah Tinie Tempah in a bright red Paul Smith suit. Photograph: Richard Young/Rex Features
Bold colour. Pastels. Bright combos. Statement suits.
Men’s fashion is no longer about being a wallflower. If one trend unites
the high street, from Marks & Spencer (pink trousers) to River
Island (orange shorts), it’s the trend for bright clothing. But if two
colours had the edge over the rest of the rainbow during the shows,
they were red and yellow. Tinie Tempah has already been spotted rocking
Paul Smith’s ketchup suiting while the new issue of GQ Style sees a
rather dapper silver fox model looking splendid in Gucci’s yellow
double-breasted catwalk suit. Easy ways to get the look: Gap’s yellow
jeans, Banana Republic’s red bomber or Asos’s red blazer.
Bomber jackets
Valentino Milan Fashion Week Valentino’s take on a bomber jacket. Photograph: Mitchell Sams/Retna/Photoshot
This is by far the dominating force in
leather jacket men
fashions right now whether you’re after a Topman varsity bargain, a
dash of animal-print-sleeved Kenzo or a blow-the-budget slice of
super-sleek baseball-style a la Valentino. In fact, because this look
has been building momentum, stores such as Cos and Reiss have refined
theirs so they look sleek and minimal rather than punchy and sporty,
which makes them more versatile. The bomber’s success is also because
it’s a brillantly workable layer. Latest styling twist: wear layered
under tailored coats or blazers zipped through to the neck for a modern
sports-tailoring mash.
Portfolio cases
The ascent of the document
mens leather briefcase
or portfolio clutch, from boardroom meetings, to actual
out-on-the-street fashion item, continues at pace. It’s on blogs, on
the frow, on the catwalk and being carried under the arms of people
such as Adam Shulman. It’s an accessory that forces you to edit your
life down to the bare bones, and unlike a shopper it doesn’t ruin the
shoulder line of your jacket. Holdall & Co, whose British-made
folios come with satchel-style metal buckles, offers a slightly roomier
take on this look – its 14in case fits magazines and a laptop.
Socks and sandals
Socks with sandals at Prada Socks with sandals at Prada. Photograph: Tiziana Fabi/AFP/Getty Images
From Prada’s 70s retro sports collection where lots of
dudes wore socks and sandals, to Agi & Sam’s offering where all the
dudes wore patterned socks with white Birkenstocks, this divisive topic
is back on the agenda.
Bleach or quiff?
Ryan Gosling in The Place Beyond the Pines Ryan Gosling in The Place
Beyond the Pines. Photograph: Focus Features/Sportsphoto Ltd/Allstar
See Ryan Gosling in The Place Beyond the Pines and
Benedict Cumberbatch playing WikiLeaks founder Julian Assange. Is this
the season’s cheapest makeover? Maybe. Though Alex Turner’s quiff on
the cover of Another Man is looking like actual hair competition, and
with his Glasto headlining slot and all, well …
Metallic
Lanvin spring/summer 2013 Lanvin spring/summer 2013: heavy metal Photograph: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images
Burberry went for it with Quality Street foils this
season, showing coats (prices from around £1,875), shirts (from £350)
and trousers (currently not available online) all finished with a
reflective shimmer on its catwalk, while Romeo Beckham became their
poster boy for the look. Lanvin’s metallic was less dazzling – a series
of silver looks, including tailoring, came towards the end of its
spring/summer catwalk. As yet, give or take the odd shoe, the high
street has been rather slow to pick up on all things metal in menswear,
which means it’s either a fashion slow-burner or the season’s fashion
red herring. The jury is out.
